That pothole near your mailbox isn't just an eyesore - every time you drive over it, you're making it worse. The good news? Small potholes are a DIY-friendly repair that can save you money and prevent bigger problems. Here's how to do it right.
Can You Really DIY This?
Honest answer: Yes, for small potholes. DIY repair makes sense when:
- Pothole is less than 2 feet in diameter
- Depth is less than 3 inches
- It's an isolated problem (not multiple potholes)
- The surrounding asphalt is still in good shape
DIY pothole repairs are temporary fixes - expect 1-3 years depending on the quality of your work and traffic. They're meant to stop the damage from spreading until you can get professional repairs or the area is ready for resurfacing.
Set Realistic Expectations
Cold-patch asphalt (what's available at hardware stores) is not as durable as professional hot-mix asphalt. It's a great temporary solution, but don't expect it to last 10 years. Think of it like a quality Band-Aid - it protects the area while you plan a permanent fix.
Materials and Tools You'll Need
Essential Materials
- Cold-patch asphalt - Get a quality brand like QPR or Aquaphalt. Cheap patch = short-lived repair. Budget: $15-30 per 50lb bag (one bag fills roughly 4"x12"x2" hole)
- Tack coat/primer (optional but recommended) - Liquid asphalt that helps the patch bond to existing surface
Tools
- Hand tamper - Essential for compacting. A 10"x10" steel tamper works well for most DIY repairs
- Stiff bristle broom - For cleaning debris
- Flat shovel - For removing loose material
- Garden hose - For washing out the hole
- Chisel and hammer - For squaring edges (optional but helps)
Safety Gear
- Heavy work gloves - Asphalt sticks to skin and stains everything
- Safety glasses - For debris when cleaning/chiseling
- Old clothes/coveralls - You will get dirty
- Knee pads - If you're doing ground-level work
- Work boots - Steel toe recommended
Step-by-Step Repair Process
Step 1: Clean Out the Pothole (Critical!)
This step is where most DIY repairs fail. The patch won't bond to dirt, debris, or loose asphalt.
- Remove all loose chunks and debris with a flat shovel
- Dig out any vegetation - roots will grow back and lift your patch
- Sweep thoroughly with a stiff broom
- Wash out with a garden hose and let dry completely (no standing water)
Pro tip: If the hole has soft, muddy soil at the bottom, you need to address drainage before patching. The patch will fail quickly without a solid base.
Step 2: Square Up the Edges (Optional but Recommended)
A pothole with crumbly, angled edges won't hold a patch as well. Using a chisel and hammer:
- Create vertical edges around the perimeter
- Remove any loose or crumbling asphalt
- Clean out the debris you just created
This creates a "form" that holds the patch material better.
Step 3: Apply Tack Coat (If Using)
Tack coat is liquid asphalt that acts like glue between the old asphalt and your patch. Apply a thin layer to the bottom and sides of the cleaned pothole. Let it get tacky (5-10 minutes) before adding patch material.
Step 4: Fill with Cold Patch - Layered Approach
Don't just dump in the patch and call it done. For best results:
- For holes deeper than 2 inches: Fill in 2-inch layers
- Pour first layer and spread evenly
- Compact firmly with tamper (we'll cover technique below)
- Add next layer and repeat until slightly overfilled
Key: Overfill by about 1/2 inch - the material will compact down.
Step 5: Compact Properly (The Most Important Step)
Poor compaction = failed patch. Here's how to do it right:
- Use your hand tamper, working from the edges toward the center
- Apply firm, overlapping blows - don't be gentle
- Continue until the patch feels solid and doesn't bounce
- The surface should be level with or slightly above the surrounding pavement
The Vehicle Trick
After tamping, drive your car back and forth over the patch several times. The weight provides excellent compaction. Just be careful if the patch is still soft - start with gentle rolls.
Step 6: Finish and Wait
- Sprinkle a thin layer of sand over the patch to prevent tracking
- Keep traffic off for 24-48 hours if possible
- The patch will continue to harden over the first week
Pro Tips for Longer-Lasting Repairs
Temperature Matters
Do your repair when temperatures are between 50-80F. Cold patch needs warmth to cure properly. In Mississippi, spring and fall are ideal - summer can be too hot (patch stays soft), winter may not cure fully.
Quality of Materials
Not all cold patch is equal. Premium products like QPR (Quality Pavement Repair) or Aquaphalt last 2-3x longer than budget brands. The extra $10 is worth it.
Drainage Check
Before patching, understand why the pothole formed. If water pools in that area, the patch will fail again. Consider:
- Redirecting downspouts away from the driveway
- Adding drainage at the driveway edge
- Addressing low spots that collect water
Sealcoat After Curing
Once your patch has fully cured (1-2 weeks), sealcoating over it helps blend the repair and adds protection. Wait until the patch is fully hardened before applying sealer.
When to Call a Professional
DIY isn't always the answer. Call a pro when:
- Multiple potholes: More than 2-3 potholes usually indicates base failure
- Large potholes: Bigger than 2 feet in any direction
- Deep potholes: Deeper than 3 inches into the base
- Recurring potholes: Same spot keeps failing = underlying problem
- Alligator cracking: Network of cracks around the pothole
- Drainage issues: Standing water that needs professional grading
- High-traffic areas: Entrances, parking spots need professional hot-mix
Professional hot-mix patching costs more upfront but lasts 10+ years vs 1-3 for DIY cold patch. For permanent repairs, it's the smarter investment.
Need Professional Pothole Repair?
Some jobs are beyond DIY. We offer professional hot-mix patching that lasts years longer than cold-patch repairs. Free estimates, no obligation.
Get a Free Repair EstimateOr call us directly: (601) 813-2533